Bra Review & Comparison: Comexim Moulin Rouge 3HC (custom), 60HH vs. 60J

It’s nearly Valentine’s Day and that makes my long overdue review of this beautiful Comexim bra timely again: don’t miss their 30% off sale which runs until Feb 14th. Keep reading for some of my favorite VDay sale picks after my review! As my regular readers will be well aware, I’ve had a lot of success with Comexim’s lightly padded bras in the past. My best fit ever is this gorgeous custom half cup set. However, finding unlined bras that fit is always a challenging for me. I rarely have more than one or two that I really enjoy wearing at any time. Since I found some of my best fitting bras in Comexim’s lightly padded vertical seam half cup cut, it seemed logical to try the same cut in an unlined style. Vertical seam half cups are generally my best fit across most brands. Joanna at Comexim graciously offered to make me an unlined Moulin Rouge, typically offered as a balcony cut, as a 3HC (half cup with 2 vertical seams) instead. I first ordered the same size as my lined styles (60HH), but ended up trying two sizes, which I’ll compare here.

Appearance

Comexim has had a few bras in their lineup that feature red and black, and I have always loved that combination. I never picked up Queen of Hearts and regretted it for a long time, so when I saw Moulin Rouge, I knew it would be my first unlined style to try. It was perfect for my summer bra search at the time because the seamed cups were made of a single layer of mesh. They looked so sheer and delicate. And it’s also one of my favorite color combos to go full VDay. Something about black and red just can’t be beat.

The selling point for me was the sheer mesh. I didn’t just want an unlined bra, I wanted something super light and breezy. Admittedly it was over 100 degrees outside when I placed my order. At the same time, this was out of character for me. I usually prefer the sturdiest materials I can find. With soft tissue and little upper fullness, very soft cups without much shape on their own can end up not giving enough support, or wrinkling in places.

I have my fair share of bras with bright patters and extra details. The minimalism won me over here. I love the elegance of the simple black band and straps, with an understated bow detail on the gore. The black satin edging is elegant and elevates the whole vibe. I also prefer to have a trim at the top of the cups because I lack some upper fullness and I find it helps shape to my bust better.

Size & Fit

I began by ordering a size 60HH after Joanna advised that I order the same size as my usual lined/padded size. I mention this because I know common advice has always been to size down in unlined styles, but I also had made quite a few custom orders with Joanna by this point, so I gladly took her advice. I typically order 3HC with some alterations, like narrower gore, straps moved in, and deeper cups. I’m not sure if these alterations were done with the unlined styles since I asked Joanna to just work some magic. (Just a reminder that Comexim is very accommodation to alterations of all kinds, but the custom nature of each order means there can be some margin of error between cuts and styles that aren’t easy to account for.) I’m not usually that specific with measurements and hardly ever sent fit photos, something that I’m certain would help you get a great fit a lot faster.

The 60HH was exactly as I imagined, but even prettier in person. It is a perfect summer bra for sure: supremely light and airy.

Unfortunately, it was a little small, especially on my larger side. The top edging cut in a little on one side and the cup depth felt too shallow in general. I guess I should add that this was after a year of pandemic lockdown and general changes which led to some fluctuation in my size and weight. In comparison to my padded 3HCs, I would say that Moulin Rouge ran shallow overall; again, this could be because the “added depth” alteration was not done.

The shallowness gave an uplifted, but minimized and close to the body (not projected) profile, which would make it great for underneath button-down shirts or when I want a more subtle silhouette. However, with a combination of the shallow cups, lightweight materials and Comexim’s quite soft wires, this led to the gore twisting and pulling away from my body.

I decided to try a 60J in the same style to get a better fit. I haven’t written a comparison of two sizes in one review before, but I wanted to take this opportunity, as when the 60J arrived, I noticed clear differences in the construction of the bra.

When a manufacturer offers a wide range of band and cup sizes – and Comexim is one of the most inclusive brands in this regard – differences in construction in the size range are normal. There may be stronger mesh, more hooks on the closure, wider shoulder straps, stronger wires, or other modifications for larger sizes. Bra engineering is complicated!

Size Comparison

Comexim Moulin Rouge 3HC in 60J (top) and 60HH (bottom) for comparison.

In the case of the 60J, the first thing I noticed right away is that the cups are constructed of two layers of mesh instead of the single layer in the 60HH. The entire bra feels sturdier overall. The double layer mesh cups are most noticeable but also affect the general feel of the bra which is less delicate and airy when worn. The cups are slightly more rigid with less “give”, which also makes them more supportive, which is why this change is made for larger cups. It just happens that I probably didn’t need the extra construction weight since I am only slightly between sizes.

The cups themselves are still too shallow for my needs in this size. They are also substantially taller than in the 60HH, which makes them too tall for me as well. The wires are noticeably firmer and thicker than in the 60HH, so although the cup depth is still insufficient, the gore stays put where it should tack against the sternum and does not twist as easily as the softer wires in the 60HH. So, all of these design changes serve an important purpose and make sense. I wanted to highlight them here for this reason. Comexim knows bras!

Other differences include wider shoulder straps, and the closure has 3 rows of 3 hooks instead 2 rows of 4 hooks. Being petite, I find 2 rows are sufficient for me most of the time, but a 3×3 closure also gives a more supported feel and I don’t mind either type at all.

All together, the 60J felt like a more “full coverage” bra than the delicate and airy materials of the 60HH, which is what I was going for as a summer pick. The cup volume made it more wearable for me, but the I would have preferred a lower cup height since it made the cups a little tall for my short roots. Luckily, Comexim allows you to customize your bras for exactly this purpose. A 60J with lower cup height and maybe a little more depth at the wire to accommodate my projection would be my next step.

I can’t express enough how refreshing it is to know that unlike attempting (and failing) to find bras that fit “off the rack”, I can truly customize every part of the bra for that perfect fit as well as tweak design features as well. Even though the double layer of mesh is more utilitarian than a single layer, it makes the bra much more supportive for fuller busts and also for my softer tissue.

Comfort

The 60HH, due to the more lightweight materials, had a light to medium level of support. This is not a bra to run for a bus in, but perfectly fine for everyday wear and lounging. The wires were softer on the 60HH than the 60J, so it did not have the same level of hold or support. The 60J hands-down had more support if intending to do any activity or wear this bra all day, but it lacked the same lightweight feel and sheer aesthetic.

Both had their pluses and minuses for that reason, so I kept both. Slightly deeper cups would have improved the comfort on both bras for me.

The single mesh on both was very soft and comfortable and not scratchy at all. The seams were sewn flat and not irritating against the skin, which is something that I worry about with mesh materials and seams in every bra I try since I have sensitive skin.

For comparison, the padded 3HC cup is also comparatively shallow, but I find it more projected (at least in my custom orders!) and therefore more comfortable. The unlined 3HC felt more like the padded 2HC feels on me – slightly more shallow all over, including at the apex and bottom of the cup. I tend to find lightly padded styles to be more supportive in general for soft tissue that needs help staying in shape. I know others like unlined styles for this, but I find that the padded 3HC has more overall shaping and support than the 60HH unlined Moulin Rouge, and a lower cup height than the 60J Moulin Rouge that is less open on top and more tapered to my shape.

Quality

Having the ability to compare two bras in different sizes has revealed a lot about Comexim’s design and construction. The differences in materials and finishes make sense even if my ideal option would have been the cup depth of a 60J and materials of the 60HH. I think being right in between both sizes, either way could have “worked”, but it’s important to note that if you are a larger cup size, you will receive a bra constructed to work with your body and to perform as you need it to. Once again, I can’t fault anything about the quality of these handmade masterpieces.

Final Thoughts

When comparing these two bras, I couldn’t help but be reminded of Panache’s Clara balconette bra. I remember trying this bra when I was a 30GG and really loving everything about it, except it wasn’t the right fit for me. The wires were stiff and the gore was too high so it was uncomfortable against my sternum. When my size changed to a 28F/30E, I was excited to try it again. I was surprised to find what felt like a totally different bra! The cups were thinner and less supportive, and the lace on the top of the cups was stretchy instead of more resistant like the 30GG. The smaller size fit better, but didn’t work for my softer tissue because stretch less just doesn’t cooperate with me. As someone in the smaller range of the “fuller bust” category, I hadn’t considered that moving from a HH to J in Comexim would be the point where cup constructions would change, but I’m pleased that I was able to try out both sizes for science, and for you!

Valentine’s Day 2024 Sale Picks

Here are some of my favorite Comexim bras that have that “love is in the air” feel! Grab them quickly at 30% off before the sale ends!

Remember, you can ask for customizations if these styles are not quite right for you. If you want to take advantage of the sale and need help deciding on sizes or alterations, I’d recommend emailing before the sale ends since your order might take some time to finalize.

If you prefer to shop from a US retailer, did you know you could also buy some Polish lingerie brands including Comexim at Miseczki? I have found them to be extremely friendly to work with and very fit-focused. Stay tuned for more about this shop in my next review.

Measurements

Comexim Moulin Rouge 3HC 60HH
* Stretched band length: 27.5in
* Band length: 20.0in
* Cup width: 5.0in
* Cup depth: 8.1in
* Wire length: 8.3in
* Cup separation: 0.6in
* Cup height: 5.1cm
* Gore height: 2.8in
* Wing height: 3.6in
* Strap width: 0.5in
* Hooks: 2

Comexim Moulin Rouge 3HC 60J
* Stretched band length: 27.5in
* Band length: 20.0in
* Cup width: 5.2in
* Cup depth: 8.8in
* Wire length: 8.8in
* Cup separation: 0.5in
* Cup height: 6.0cm
* Gore height: 3.0in
* Wing height: 3.8in
* Strap width: 0.8in
* Hooks: 3

2 thoughts on “Bra Review & Comparison: Comexim Moulin Rouge 3HC (custom), 60HH vs. 60J

  1. This was a fabulous review. I read it after making my first direct order from Comexim. I have (& love) several 3HC padded bras from Breakout Bras.

    For some reason, I initially went with a larger size (65HH). However, after mulling over your article, I reached out to Joanna. I included a few fit photos of me in my 28G bras from BOB. She responded within minutes and agreed that the size (65HH) would likely be too large. Whew! The order changed to 60HH.

    I agree, Joanna is *the best*!

    Thank you for your reviews. Happy Valentine’s Day! 💐

    Like

    1. Thank you so much for your comment! The service Comexim provides is really second to none. And Joanna has a great eye, even with the minimal details I provide! I hope you love your order. Happy Valentine’s Day!

      Liked by 1 person

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